When making a splice using a crimp connector, the splice has to be sealed to prevent moisture from corroding the connection. Available at auto supply stores. Trace the wires from the engine and you will find another clamp on the fender well that needs to be removed, 8 or 9 mm I think. Heat, time and vibration had taken their toll. With the oil trap removed, you can clean it and put a new O ring on it leak source and new flame trap. Even better, first clean off any oxidants using spray.
When the car is turned on - the horn works very well. If a vehicle within scope exhibits drivability problems that are intermittent and cannot be otherwise diagnosed, short circuits in wiring harness caused by deteriorating insulation may be the cause. Think of all the things that could go wrong with such a connection: The crimp to the wire could come loose, corrode or become mechanically damaged in a collision. You should be able to reach it by removing the ash tray and ash tray frame. Refer to a wiring diagram to test with a test light.
Get a good fuse block. If the problem really is a ground issue, the wire may confirm the diagnosis or, when properly secured, be a permanent solution. Now start to remove the old harness toward the engine and start to plug in new stuff. When the circuit is de-energized as when the ignition is off more than about 25 milliamps is trouble. Some failures can be caused by isolated instances- accidentally shorting out light connectors when changing a bulb.
The one to the right of it is the same Hella relay, used for high beam lighting. The wires up by the firewall on the left side of the car were bare at the connector. Years ago, for example, I found that a burned brake light fuse was caused by a loose courtesy light in the ashtray. You can repair the assembly when you get home. The transmission dipstick is an arm length down. If the car's existing relay has copper-colored terminals, replace it with the newer relay. The internal resistance of this crimp increases until injectors start to missfire, the O2 sensor sees too much oxygen and feeds the engine much too much fuel.
On the right near the base of the exposed steering column you should see a silver electric … al box about the size of a box of matches with a wire plugged into the high end. Your new harness has yellow bands indicating where the clamps should be. It slides off a plastic attachment. The other is located on the right side of the engine compartment. Put your hand below the screws as you remove them as there is a great likelihood that the panel nuts into which the screws are secured will fall out when the screw is pulled out. When your diagnosis says that neither of those two things is happening, it's time to go hunting for that bad ground connection! The illustration shows an overdrive relay with solder cracks.
But the actual flashers are elsewhere. This is a very common problem on 700 series Volvos. You do not have to put on new crimped connectors. In case of emergency, disconnect only the light that short-circuits, you can use the other ones until the fault is corrected. Radio memories, engine computers etc. Start by disconnecting both ends of the line unplug the lights end and the brake light switch then consult a wiring diagram to make sure any other devices attached to that circuit are disconnected.
You'll also see where larger tangs stick through and are soldered -- these are the heavy-current leads from the relay contacts as well as the relay connectors. First, there's the issue of the mechanical connection itself. But the wires on this circuit run under the headliner, behind and under the dashboard. Pull gently to allow the wire bundles to unflex as they are removed. You may be able to re-solder, or you can replace it. The reason is that solder has very poor mechanical properties. You can wiggle the switch pod free of the retainer and away from the door.
No, that's the starter cable. Any good diagrams ou there? Soldering the Relay Base Crimped Connections. After that it's either try a new relay or start tracing with a multimeter. This is a good time to service oil and flame trap area if needed. Product is used for field repairs for circuit boards that have cracked or broken traces and soldering not available. Not sure where that is located.
If any window works from the driver door switch pod then power is getting to the switch pod and almost certainly to all pod switches. I find that, It is vital to have firm connectors or else they slide out when you push-in your relay! One frequent short is in the radio amplifier circuit. Bingo, it was the relay side of the battery, right front. My relay panel is all plastic. Assuming that the wire doesn't get tangled in some moving part, the very worst that can happen is that nothing will happen. Installed new relay, all is ok.
Either that or there's a hot short at the relay socket or in the wiring between the relay and the ignition switch. There are several basic problems inherent in achieving reliable grounding. Just open the drivers door and pop the fuse panel cover. I even pulled out the fuse panel to confirm this. It's hard to get out with all the other parts around it and you have to spread out the little side clips on each side of the flasher relay to release it. It's better just to buy the complete cable from Volvo as it's not just the ends that go bad I think you are refering to B+ cable between the battery and the starter motor. To access relays, remove the ashtray push the spring clip at the top and fuse panel cover push the plastic snap at the bottom.