Headlight Dimmer Relay circuit '66 thru '70. Use the ohmmeter to check the continuity. Don't you have fog in the States? It's a pain in the backside to replace. The older switches have little locks you need to release to get the part split open. You will then install one of the yellow wires coming from the relay to pin-2. You need an ohmmeter and the wiring diagram.
It wouldn't be so bad if the looms had been left roughly in place in the body, as you'd then have a rough idea where they went fewer alternatives but starting from scratch is rather confusing. I could dig around with the part number and see what model cars used it, but it isn't as common, I only have one of them out of a box of switches. The closest metric sizes to these are M3 and M4, with M3 probably being a better bet. The only reliable tap might be at the taillight's brake light wire. Dave coasted to a stop at the curb in front of our house, and that was it. The one on the right I have no clue about! Notice the burn damage around the reverse light bars, and this is after I picked at them to clean them up again. Since you've drilled out the rivets, you'll need some other way to hold the cover on the switch.
If we assume that the red wire is the power lead to the brake lights, and the black wire is the ground, when we apply the brakes, the red wire should show current flowing through it. Here are the backs of the switches shown above. The switching is a pain in the backside because you have to have the front fogs on before you can switch the rear fogs on, it should be the other way around. If your car originally had one of these big switch trans and that means you have an upshift light in the instrument cluster and you swapped in a trans with the smaller 2-terminal switch in it, then peel the rubber back on the wiring harness on the car, and look at the numbers on the top of the plastic under the rubber covering. Normally, it would be enough, when the pin was new, but it might be just burned enough to not work in the trans, but work on the bench. You can tape off or trace the wire back to the ignition switch and remove the wire from the harness. Once in the helper you need to uncheck 3 boxes wording may be a little different than what I have here - my memory is poor : 1.
Rob responded - Most cigarette lighters use about 8 amps, so a fuse of 12-15 amps would be about right. I got some useful work done on my '70 Bug this weekend. More than that and you are showing high resistance in the circuit. We advise you to first read the electrical wiring diagram shown here comprehensively to make sure your wiring connection is in the right combination. It can also be a broken wire on the switch that is causing the lights to stop working. Sometimes the switch will work on the bench being worked by hand, but not in the trans.
Its always had me baffled why they aren't mandatory in the States? Right, let's open an older switch up and see what makes it work. The parts of the switch once split open. Look carefully and you will see it. Wire short — You may have a short in the wiring. Audible warning circuit for Oil pressure, Generator, Lights left on.
Just use fingers to pull each of the four corners off. If the insulator or the wire are broken, the wire can short out to the metal cover of the switch and leave you with a dead battery. This article explores some of the more common aspects of the circuits. To double-check your work, look at the for your vehicle. I edited and cropped them to what you see below.
Using the instructions above, test your switch for continuity and replace it if it is bad. Once you're happy with the switch, put it back in the Bus. This means the pedal cannot raise high enough to make contact with the switch. With this type of system, the turn signals use the same circuit as the brakes, which means that you cannot have both of them on at the same time. Slide a thin screwdriver under the edge and lift it up over the locks. Don't you have fog in the States? My switch is similar to this switch.
The switching is a pain in the backside because you have to have the front fogs on before you can switch the rear fogs on, it should be the other way around. Metal pick straight or curved 6. You can leave them on or take them off, but don't lose them. Hold only the switch and the connector only. Then, solder in a short insulated wire, inside the switch, from terminal 58 to terminal 58b.
What is this plug in my engine bay? Take your meter and check both switch terminals for continuity to ground. Wiring diagram for 6V Single-speed wiper. The switching is a pain in the backside because you have to have the front fogs on before you can switch the rear fogs on, it should be the other way around. If you look closely at the driver-side headlight plug car-side , there are small numbers around the round edge of the plug. Where is the Backup Light switch located? Measure between the metal cover of the switch and each terminal on the back as you work the switch through all its positions. There wouldn't be any thing else it could be. Drill a hole through the package shelf in the back or, better, under the back seat, go through the grommet for the battery cable.
This is very awkward to do, and the car would have to be raised and the right rear wheel removed to provide access. Lift it up and you can get access through there. If the flashers work, then test for a blown fuse. So I got out the book and tested each fuse one at a time and found that it was wired correctly, the fuses were just wrong. Some switches will require one side of the nuts to be filed flat to fit properly against the bell-shaped metal cover of the switch.